Day Trip to North Korea – the longest 8 hours of my life | Laagan Kaayo

Read how I planned this tour, all you need to know before jumping in to the most mysterious country on the planet here…

Disclaimer: All the thoughts, opinions and information expressed here are solely based on Laagan Kaayo’s experience in Sinuiju, North Korea. Her interpretation of all the happenings in this tour is purely personal and doesn’t necessarily mean correct. Why? read below…

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We woke up around 5 in the morning, freshen up, ate instant noodles for breakfast then checked out before 8. I wasn’t particularly scared. Maybe a little nervous but mostly excited!

North Korea Day Tour briefing before the real deal

We went straight to the CITS office just few meters away from our hotel to meet with David Wang for the tour briefing. It turned out that Koryo Tours just partnered with CITS, a local Chinese travel agency, for day tours to North Korea. This agency was the one who actually organized our trip and Koryo Tours was just the middleman, especially since the communication started outside China. I’m not sure if I’m correct about that but that’s how I understood the whole process. And I wanted you to know that. 😀 (I’d like to think that CITS’ would offer a lower price for North Korea Day Trip had I connected with them directly. Hmmp! Next time!)

David instructed us to deposit our bags at the front desk then ushered us upstairs to his office. We filled out a departure and arrival card and paid1290 RMB each in cash to him.

And the saddest part of it all was, he told us to leave our phones as well! 🙁

David did the briefing while walking on our way to the border control office. It was just a casual talk. Haha After a couple of minutes, we arrived at this place that looked like an old warehouse.

But what did I bring with me to North Korea?

I only brought my day bag. Inside were my wallet, mirrorless camera, extra battery, water, snacks, toiletries, cap and shades. Also the delicacies that we brought with us from Philippines, in a paper bag. That’s it I think.

I would like to emphasize the part where you bring your own water and snacks because the tour won’t provide. You’ll have to wait til lunch to feed your growling stomach if ever. You can buy food in some of the stops but they aren’t familiar so. I left my gorillapod, my gopro and my power bank to not complicate things. And of course my phone 🙁

Arriving at the border control in Dandong, China

I could hardly believe with what I saw. There were a lot of Chinese tour groups scattered around, chatting and laughing and excited like they are about to visit Disneyland!

So I guess it’s not at all hard to visit North Korea? They are not at all strict with foreign people visiting their country? Or perhaps they have a special arrangement with Chinese people because I think, out of (maybe) 300 people who will go to North Korea on that day, only me and my friend are not Chinese.

David made sure that we exit properly from the border before he left us in the hands of this Chinese girl who will go with us in North Korea. She’s nice however she doesn’t speak English, but still managed to assist us. We had to go through the immigration in a strict order base on this passenger list carried by the girl, us being the last in line.

Since there’s a huge crowd visiting North Korea on that day, passing through the immigration took forever! The border control office in Dandong is quite small with only two platforms catering people who enter and exit China.  It was already passed 9AM when we got our exit stamp.

Then we waited for another 30 fucking minutes (or more!!!) while inside the tour bus because unfortunately the bridge (Sino-Korean Friendship Bridge) that we are about to cross is ONE-WAY. And there was a loooooong queue of 10-wheeler trucks coming in to China from North Korea. Like A LOT, it was so annoying! I swear to God! 😠😠😠

Then the last truck passed and it’s our turned to cross the bridge! THIS IS IT!!!!

Finally stepped on the North Korean Soil

It was a less than 5-minute journey crossing the bridge to Sinuiju. Our bus parked outside the immigration office. I saw North Koreans for the first time. They were just regular Koreans really. Lots of, I don’t know, policemen? Like wearing military green uniforms with a hat.

Before we disembarked, the Chinese girl collected all our cameras and passport. And then we got off the bus in the same order as we did in the Chinese border earlier. The immigration process in North Korea was super chill! We just placed our bags in the old-looking X-ray machine and then that’s it I think? We didn’t queue for our passport to be checked or even got our fingerprints collected just like in China. No immigration officer to check our faces. It was just like passing a hallway, literally. It happened so fast.

But as far as I remember, their “immigration office” looked dark and the facilities were old and outdated but still functional.The whole room gives you a 70’s vibe, people living in the present that’s stuck in time.

Back in the bus, we finally met with our North Korean guides. One man and one pretty woman who looked like Shaye from Game of Thrones. She’s nice but with strong badass personality, just like Shaye. I really like her even though we don’t understand each other.

The actual North Korea Day Tour commenced

The driver finally started the engine and we went to our first stop (following our strict itinerary), the Central Square of Sinuiju where huge statues of Kim Il-Sung, the founding father of North Korea and his son Kim Jong-Il erected. We got our cameras back as well but not our passport. Yep, they are keeping it until the end of the tour.

I got excited when I first laid my eyes on them.They were massive! As a custom, people would offer flowers at the statue as a sign of respect. BUT the flowers were fake. I mean they were made of paper, like from a school project and costs 20 CNY each bouquet. It wasn’t required though so me and my friend were just standing from afar waiting for the rest of our tour-mates. After paying respect to the leaders, we gathered around the center to have a proper souvenir photo. Unfortunately, it wasn’t allowed to take personal picture on this site. Our camera was basically useless. They provided us official photographer instead, who will document our entire journey. Yeah, they are extra like that!

Next stop was some “History Museum” just behind the statues. And this was the part where it dawned on us that we won’t have our own personal English guide. We were literally out-of-place. The male North Korean guide was supposed to be our English guide but he was also the main guide of our tour group. Of course, he chose to speak Chinese the entire time to please the majority.

We didn’t really learn anything about North Korea from our tour. He apologized to us though but he didn’t make up for it. The whole time he was explaining stuff, it was all in Chinese and didn’t bother translating even just a small part of it for us, like we don’t matter. God I’m so emotional! We just didn’t force him to translate as it was too much effort and we were already not in the mood. He’s also intimidating. I’m more comfortable with the girl guide. If only “Shaye” can speak English 🙁 Oh well.

So we just took pictures EVERYWHERE as much as we can and comprehend every scenery that we encounter, on our own. 🙁

We passed by some rice fields and working farmers along the way. The road was mostly empty as cars seldom passed by. Most of the people we saw on the streets were either walking or on a bicycle, going on with their lives. Lifeless buildings stood at the central part of this town. I mean, they looked empty to me. Uninhabited to say the least. But behind those concrete walls were poorly made houses where I saw people coming in and out.

We were on our way to have lunch near the Yalu River and passed by the bridge again. On the second floor of the building was a room with round tables filled with variety of food on top, ready to eat. We sat together with this Chinese family composed of two adorable young girls, one Mom and one Grandma. They were nice to us even if we don’t understand each other.

After lunch, we went downstairs and checked the souvenir shop. They didn’t have the regular souvenir options like key chains or ref magnets. Most of them were cosmetics. Yes, typical Korea? 😉 So I only bought 2 packs of chocolates (which tastes good! according to my officemates :D) and 3 paper doll magnets. Once everyone got settled inside the bus, we went to our next stop.

Until my attention was called…

While sitting at the back, I recorded a video while passing the famous bridge so that I have a footage from North Korea perspective. Our male guide was explaining something when he suddenly waved his hand to get our attention at the back. My friend saw him making a sign pointing at me, basically wanting me to stop with whatever I was doing with my camera. Margie frantically grabbed my hand telling me to stop. I got startled from my seat and looked at them and they were looking at me. Oh shit!

He continued with his discussion in Chinese like nothing happened but I was already panicking at the back. I mean, should I delete the pictures/videos now? The “life” in this part of North Korea that I manage to capture. I don’t want to. I can’t. Then I remember what happened to Otto Wombrier and his tragic death. Fuck!

When we disembarked from the bus, I saw him coming towards me. Shit! He slowly approached me and said, “Please don’t take pictures while inside the bus. You can only take pictures when you are outside the bus.” (Basically the places that’s part of our itinerary). I humbly replied, “Ok. I’m sorry.”

I’m dead. I just took the initiative to delete the photos and videos. But the way he delivered those statements didn’t sound life threatening though so I didn’t delete them all. Instead, I just purposely drain my camera battery and was ready to face the consequences of the my action.

Or I just need to improve my stealth moves! Goddamn it!

Acknowledging the lost freedom

I am fully aware that visiting North Korea will restrict me from doing things that a tourist would usually do . A visitor to DPRK must be with a guide at all times. You can’t wander off on your own nor do things on your own. You must ask permission from your guide before you can do things. But we didn’t have one. And it didn’t synced in until I was confronted by our male guide. 🙁

At this point, I was more cautious with my actions. It felt like they will now keep an eye on me, anticipating my next careless move. I was more prudent with my subjects when taking photos. I even started asking for permission from him if it’s okay to do this and that, trying to save myself. No kidding.

It’s sad and annoying. I continue to act as a normal tourist in North Korea but with fear for my life. I may be overreacting but only God knows how North Koreans think or handle trouble-makers. 🙈🙈🙈

Impressive North Korea Day Tour Finale

Our last stop was in this colorful Kindergarten School. Our female guide led us to the auditorium upstairs but we had to wear foot maps. It’s nostalgic actually. The last time I wore this was when I was still in high school, like 10 years ago. XD

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The kids were amazing!!! I was super impressed! It’s a yes for me!

However, I don’t know if it’s just me but there’s something else behind those smiles and extraordinary talent . I can see torment and pressure right through their eyes 🙁 I hope I’m wrong.

Final Judgment

It was almost 4 in the afternoon when we went back to the immigration office and they’d already collected our cameras way before arriving there. But my camera was inoperable as it was low bat. Nope, I didn’t replace the battery with my extra 😀 “Goodluck Kesh!”.

We passed through the immigration in the same way as we did in the morning. Going through the same chill! I saw our male guide as I went to the exit door. Although we really did set aside a tip for him but since he didn’t do his job well, we only gave him the delicacies that we brought from Philippines. I handed him over the paper bag, bow my head and said, “Thank you!” with feelings. He gladly accepted it and smiled and said “Oh thank you! They are waiting for you in the bus” ( as we were the last in line… zzzz) I waved goodbye to him!

At the bus, I got reunited with my low bat camera and my precious passport!!!! The engine finally came to life and we were now heading back to Dandong. We waved goodbye to our guides through the window for the last time. sigh

My last thoughts about North Korea

There are thousands of DPRK photos and videos in the web showing North Korean life outside the tour itinerary. I’m dismayed I wasn’t able to capture the same. Not on our North Korean male guide’s watch.😭😭😭

But it made me appreciate the real essence of freedom more.

Moreover, I’ll never condone killings or oppressing people (if they really do exist) or even the nuclear activities. But that part where “they say” that everything you see in North Korea is staged and just for show, well it doesn’t really matter to me. If they want to impress the visitors, what’s wrong with that? If they only want us to see these specific places as per the itinerary, I respect it. As long as no one is hurt in the process then I’m okay with it.

And while we didn’t really learn anything from our tour in North Korea unfortunately, I am still thankful and privilege to visit one of the most isolated places on earth. It may be short but the opportunity to witness and experience the actual country is already an incredible experience!

Will I come back to North Korea?

HELL YES!!! I will go straight to Pyongyang and will make sure to have personal English guide this time. Can’t get over my frustration.

Will I recommend Koryo Tours?

I don’t know. I’m sure there was a miscommunication between them and the guides but it cost us a lot. Our chance to learn about North Korea definitely go to waste. 🙁

IMPORTANT TIPS – Traveling to North Korea

(regardless which tour operator) When you book your tour, please emphasize the personal English guide part! And mention my horrible experience as an example so they won’t take your request for granted. Because I doubt if you can still complain when you are already in North Korea.

This is an EXPENSIVE EXPERIENCE. Make sure you get what you pay for. It’s still a business after all.

Also, if you have plenty of time in China, you can search for local tour operators as they offer the cheapest price. I’m sure there’s plenty in Dandong.

We met a fellow Filipino(an exchange student) in the train who came from a 3 days 2 nights tour in Pyongyang. He told us that he’s aware of Young Pioneer Tours and Koryo Tours but he saw this ad somewhere online and tried his luck. He thought the cheap price was too good to be true but what can he lose? So he contacted the local agency via WeChat and it was legit so he went for it. And the best part? He had his own English guide!!!

Also he gave us some North Korean pin souvenir that he bought in Pyongyang. He was so nice or he was just sorry for the paper doll magnets that we bought! haha >_<

In short, Pyongyang really has better souvenir options!

Day Trips to Sinuiju? Or go straight to Pyongyang?

For me, if you have the time, go all the way to Pyongyang! Shortest budget tour offered by Young Pioneer Tours is estimated Php 27000 for 3 days and 2 nights and is organized by expats living in China. So it’s guaranteed that you will have an English guide. The only downside of this is that it has fix dates. You will have to adjust, which in our case was impossible as we already booked our flights.

The day trip costs us around Php 10500 which for me isn’t satisfying, considering all the places that we’ve visited and how our tour was executed. It’s not really worth it but just enough for experience.  And Day Tours can go any day.

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More North Korea photos…

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READ: North Korea Travel Guide

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